The science of lipids in cosmetics

Lipids are the workhorses of cosmetic formulations. In creams, balms, and cleansers, they often make up 70% or more of the non-water ingredients. But their role goes far beyond simple moisturization. 

These hydrophobic molecules create the structural foundation that determines how a product spreads, builds texture, and feels on skin. They stabilize emulsions, control viscosity, and influence everything from absorption rates to sensory experience. The specific fatty acid composition, chain length, and thermal properties of lipids directly impact product performance.

Why traditional lipids have limitations

Natural oils and butter evolved for biological functions like seed storagenot cosmetic applications. A single natural lipid source contains different fatty acids in varying ratios, often creating broad melting ranges and unpredictable behavior. Palm oil, for example, contains palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and stearic acid in ratios that vary based on growing conditions and processing. It can be challenging to predict exactly how different batches will perform in different formulations.

The precision of microbial lipids

This is where fermentation gets interesting. Xylome’s yeast, Lipomyces starkeyi, produces a much more defined fatty acid profile. By controlling fermentation conditions, we can influence the specific fatty acids produced and their ratios.

What’s particularly exciting is how Yoil® P feels on skin. The sharp melting profile creates a smooth, pleasant sensation without the greasy residue that some lipids can leave. It spreads and absorbs easily, creating a “clean” sensory experience. The controlled nature of fermentation allows us to achieve consistently, batch by batch.

Beyond replacement: designing new lipids

The real opportunity isn’t just replacing existing ingredients; it’s creating lipids that don’t exist in nature. Through fermentation optimization, we can engineer lipids with specific melting points, targeted fatty acid profiles, and customized sensory characteristics. We’re currently developing variants of Yoil® with different thermal and sensory properties. This approach unlocks new possibilities for cosmetic formulation design. Instead of being limited by what plants naturally produce, we can engineer lipids specifically for how they’ll be used in beauty products.

The future of lipids

As fermentation scientists, we’re fascinated by how our microbial oil develops properties useful for cosmetic applications. The precision, consistency, and potential for customization of fermented lipids represent a fundamentally different approach to ingredient development. Yoil® isn’t just a sustainable alternative to RBD palm oil; it’s a glimpse into how biotechnology can create entirely new cosmetic ingredients.